Rupkund : The deadly lake (Part III)

Leaving Wan behind, we started walking uphill, and after a short trail, reached Ranakdhar (in Garhwali dialect DHAR means narrow place on a mountain). A slice of Mt. Trishul was visible from there. If one stand there facing Trishul, Baidini bugiyal will be on his left and Ali bugiyal will be on his right. Taking rest was unavoidable, so a we took a 'Glucose break', then started trekking again, this time downhill. We crossed river Nilganga over a gorge bridge.Ranjit told us that the origin of river Nilganga is Baidinikund ,our day's destination. After Nilganga, the real trek started. Continuous climb through the dense alpine forest (mainly pine and a similar tree whose local name is 'Surai')led us a small flat place at around 4 in the afternoon. Our guide explained that during Nandajat the Doli of devi is placed here to allow the pilgrims a break. Thats why it's name is ' Doliadhar'. A room without any wall serves as the temple. Ranjit and the porter lit some agarbatti, offered some dry fruits and started again for the last round of difficult steep ascent.

Final ascent to Baidini Bugiyal

At last at around six, we reached the green field of Baidini (12500 ft). Mt Trishul, bathing in the magical light of the setting sun welcomed us. Within half an hour, our tent were pitched, and we enjoyed a memorable sun set with hot coffee mug in our hands.

Our tent at Baidini, Mt Nandaghunti & Mt Trishul peeping from behind

Rupkund: The deadly lake (part II) - The mythological importance

To the villagers of Wan the temple of 'Latu' God is the most devine place of the region. According to the myth, once Devi Parvati quarled with Daksharaja and escaped from his palace and lost her ways in a place near the bank of river Neelganga between Baidini bugiyal and Wan village.Then God Latu arrived there riding a horse and wearing red garments. He showed her the proper route under the condition that in this region he (God Latu )will also be worshiped along with Devi Parvati.Since then Latu is being worshiped in this region. The villagers remember him in case of their daily problem like drought or heavy rain.The temple opens at Baiskhi Purnima for six months. During this period fairs are organised here, only gents can take part in dancing and singing.In the month of Bhadra ( fifth month of the year according to the Hindu calender),'Antho' festival is observed here in which innumerable ships are sacrifised.

From Wan a festive trek called 'Nandajat' is organised. Nandajat which is organised every year is called 'Choti Nndajat' (Small Nandajat), which completes at Baidini Bugiyal (pasture land ).A bigger version is organised after each twelve years, which is the biggest social and rekigious festival of the Garhwal region. It was also observed even in the era of Mahavarata. Even the Pandavas also took part in this. In the Gupta era ( from 4th to 8th centuries) is became very popular.According to the 'Harshacharita of Banbhatta, King Harshavardhana (607 - 657 A.D) was it's patron. During the Muslim period Nandajat lost some of it's glory but revive in British period. According to Atkins, in 1882 the marriage anniversary of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati was celebrated in 'Nandastami'. Then every year the idol of Nandadevi was carried in a Palki(a cart carried by 2/4/6/8 persons) from Nauti Pargana of Garhwal to the Baidini bugiyal.Garhwalis believe that Nauti is her father's home and after every twelve ears, she performs oblation at Homekund on the way to her husband's home. So 'Bara Nandajat' or Raj-jat is observed after every twelve years.During this the 'Doli'(idol) of devi is carried as far as possible beyond Baidini. A four horned ram is loaded with cloth, ornaments, rice, wheat, orange etc and the pilgrims follow him. The journey ends at a place upto which the ram can reach. Then two stones containing mica are worshiped as the deity and the pilgrimage ends. If the ram can reach Homkund, then the ram is made free there. Surprisingly (at least the villagers believe) neither the ram nor his skeleton can be found thereafter. Though Homkund is the desired destination, yet the pilgrimage could reach there in 1967 for the last time. After that all the Nandajat (including the latest one in 2000) could only reach upto 'Chota Homkund).


Previously there was a custom of human sacrifice at the spot where the Nandajat could reach. But now an alternative system is followed. After every twelve years, the senior persons of the region elects a very old man unanimously. After the selection, he shaves his head, takes a bath with scented water containing rice, wheat, yellow flower etc. and he is considered as dead. His family completes his obsequies and he stars to live in an isolated mud house, taking a single meal a day. Coincidentally his death occurs within a year! In some villages, the ladies visit there father's home from their husband's place and they are worshiped by their sister-in-laws(brothers wife).

Maharjpur, The Unknown Neighbour

When 3153 UP Gour Exp left Rampurhat station leaving us on one platform, on the day before Dol Purnima the morning light was yet to come. After getting fresh in the waiting room and having the day's first round tea, we occupied seats in an almost dark compartment of the local train for Sahebganj. The length of vacation being very short, the health of the wallet being thinest possible,we had no other choice but to select a less known small village at the Bengal -Jharkhand border.

We reached Maharajpur rail station at about12 noon and then reached the forest Bungalow after a trail of 15 mints. The compound could accommodate few football ground! The bungalow consisted of two extra large rooms with a canopy of Sal, Teak, Jarul, Sisoo etc trees. The floor was coated of a couple of inches dust, probably the place got visitors after years!! So we had to clean the room first to make it a little comfortable. There were no furniture at all in the rooms. The chowkidar brought straw for us, which produced a wonderful bed on the floor within few mints. Then we decided to have a bath in the river(The Ganges).

Next morning we started exploring the area. Small hillocks were all around the railway track.The whole area( from Rampurhat to Sahebganj) is under famous Rajmahal Range and made of basalt and modified rocks. Hot kachouris, Jalebis and tea constituted a nice breakfast. Local tribal peoples were engaged in collecting woods in the jungle. They earn their bread by selling these in the local market. In the mean time train for Rajmahal arrived. From Rajmahal station we took a tanga for only 100 rupees.


First we visited the "Singhi Dallan" which was bulit bya Mansingh at arout 1600 A.D. An excellent view of the Ganges is available from there. Though the three storied building is struggling for existence, a few wonderful Mughal Painting were carrying the last symbol of it's glorious past amidst the ruins. But few so called tourist had catalysed the destruction process by en curving there names on the paintings. Then we visited the "Jumma Masjid". On the way the Tanga driver showed us the ruins of an old mint. Around the Masjid there are mines of china clay. Though the horse was there to carry us, but the road was so horrible that we had to pull and push the cart several time to place it on the track from the mud!!. At the end we drove towards "Kathghar". The entire route was covered with stones of shapes and colours like rice, daal, wheat etc. According to the myth the local land lord once denied to give food to a poor bhramhin beggar. After that all the food grains of his kingdom became petrified. A small temple of Lord Krishna is there.We came back at the Bungalow at around 2 p.m.

Following the chowkidar's suggestion, next morning we went for a 4 km jungle trek to visit a tribal village and a falls. The entire region was blood red due to the fully blommed Palash and Shimul trees.


A very thin stream came from almost 80 ft to a small lake. Local people told us this becomes furious during July - August after few rainy days. We took a prolonged bath ,came back to our bungalow to spend our last night there.

Direction:

From Kolkata, Rampurhat by 3153 UP Gour Express. From there Maharajpur is accessible by Sahebganj Local. Otherwise Barhaora by Danapur first Passenger or Mujaffarpur Local, then Maharajpur or Sahebganj by local trains.

Shelter & foods

Though few hotels are available ast Sahebganj, but travelling from Maharajpur is better, because it is "pocket friendly". In 2001 the tariff of the whole forest bungalow was Rs.24 (not a type error!). The local shops around the railway station will make food for you if requested. Very simple veg food...Plz don't expect luxary is food or lodging in this place, you'll then be utterly frustrated. This place is not for those who want every comfort like those of luxurious resorts at every tourist places.

At GandhiSarovar..

Everybody was so mesmerised that nobody talked, no body shouted in joy, nobody tried to capture all the things through lens. I don't know how many silent moment passed.... probably I were the punishable offender to break that heavenly silence by the "clicks" of my camera. Peaks, peaks & peaks every where...with there snow capped heads ....

Panoramic view at Gandhisarovar

Gandhi Sarovar is a small glacial lake in the state of Uttaranchal, India at approx 3900 m. It is a 3.5 km modest trek from Kedarnath , the well known holy place to the Hindus of India. But this region attracts even agnostics & atheists as well like a huge magnet due to its heavenly beauty.

The still water reflects the image of Kedarnath peak. But with the progress of the day, wind starts to create waves in the lake which may disappoint the trekker. So early start from Kedarnath is a must to get the total beauty of this picturesque lake

It is believed that Yudhishthir, the eldest of the Pandavas have departed to heaven from Gandhi Sarovar. River Mandakini, a major tributary of The Ganges originates from here. Previously this was know as " CHORABARITAL" ( CHORA = hideden, BARI= water, TAL= lake) because due to continuous self reconstruction of the glacier, its water often not visible. After the death of Mahatma M.K. Gandhi, (whole India know him as "the father of the nation"), his ashes were immersed in Lake. Since then it is renamed as Gandhi Sarovar.



There we met the Austrian couple Helga & Kleine. The Lady publishes a news paper there , and Kleine serves for Austrian Army.

Our team with the Austrian couple at Gandhisarovar

We spend a couple of hours there together... exchanged email ID then they started descending to Kedarnath. We remained mum there for few more mints. Then followed them, but repeatedly looked back after every two steps, mentally we were hardly ready for coming back.

Looking back again and again

They were about 500 m ahead of us, we could see the happy couple meandering downwards to Kedarnath, two loops down..... suddenly a rock fell right on Helga's forehead and took no time to turn her T shirt red with her own blood!!! We rushed to the spot, her left eye was severely injured, popping out of the eye socket. I send two of our team members to Kedarnath to arrange a "Kandi"( a chair, carried by four person ) so that she can be evacuated to the helipad . The nearest equiped hospital were Rudraprayag /Delhi. So no other way except air traffic service could help. Though it was really painful, Helga kept her cool. I had a minimum medical kit with me, Kleine wrapped her head with the cotton. Already 35 mints gone, no help arrived from downhill, Helga started vomiting and making all of us panicked, blood started to flow from her mouth, nose. Realising the fact, that, delay of every single second was making the situation more complex, I requested the labours who were engaged in the road construction to carry her downwards. Two of them came forward, they carried her on their back almost one km, when the Kandi reached from Kedarnath. Kleine offered them money , but they didn't sell their humanitarian entity for some bucks. We rushed to the helipad and arranged a special flight for the couple to Delhi after 10 mints.

Gandhisarovar from Kedarnath(Part II)

After 15 mints walk, the bite of the cold became less penetrating. Though we continued following the stone embedded narrow path, yet sometimes with an intention to cut the distance, ascended straight along the rocky surface. There were signs everywhere along the road to tell the fact that the road construction was in progress.

On the way

But last 500 mtrs or so, there was no distinct roadways... we had to trek through a bolder zone. When we climbed the last hump, we became spellbound. The majestic Himalayas were observing her reflection on the Gandhi Sarovar.

Gandhisarovar from Kedarnath

We must reach there as early as possible, may be by 8; we decided in our closed door meeting(Plz don't think we had a very confidential meeting!!! we had to close the door to avoid the chilling cold of Kenadrnath.)

3km long route is not so steep, so 2 hours would be fine enough for a very comfortable, lazy walk. So we decided to start around six next morning.But our lady members were pretty reluctant to trek further higher.At least two of them were suffering from ankle problem and blister.So we followed the democratic process and the net outcome was that , we must trek to GANDHI SAROVAR.

Next day, we came out of the warmth of the bulky blankets at 5 in the morning, and we were on our way by 5.45 , covering our whole body under heavy woolen garments. Ratan ,my brother in law, ( eldest of the group)rang the bell of the temple wishing a nice journey. We crossed the river Mandakini and followed the right angel turn from the powerhouse. At 6.10, the first ray of Sun on Mt Kedar proclaimed the start of another pollution free day in the Himalayas.

First ray on Mt Kedarnath 

Gandhisarovar from Kedarnath(Part II)

At GandhiSarovar..

Deoriatal : a less known paradise

"Don't worry sir, main hoon na!" assured Raghubir Singh Negi, the owner of Negi Guest House at Sari village. We have just ascended from Kedarnath after a 14 km downhill trek to Gourikund and then five hours drive to Sari, the base camp for Deoriatal. I was dreaming about spending a moonlit night at Deoria since my first visit in 2003. In this five years I were there twice , but as a day trekker, night spending was still in dreams only.

So, in Oct 2008 , while chalking out the final itinerary, I kept two days for Deoria. My old friend Raghubir was well aware about my "unsatisfied desire". As soon as he came to know that we have two days for Deoria camp he said "main hoon na!" The ladies of the team threw Raghu out and captured his kitchen, boys started to collect wood from the nearby jungle to celebrate our successful trek to Gandhisarovar and myself being pretty relaxed got out of the hut to explore Sari.




Next morning, (Oct 13th, 2008) we started with a "Darshan" of Lord Shiva , my cousin sister prayed for his blessings for a clear weather. The dense tree cover on both side of the stone embedded route, blocked the sunlight, chirping of many known, little known and unknown birds helped to forget about the climb.



Two km trek came to an end soon , the magnificent view of Mt Chokhamba, Trishuli, Kedar and many more was just in front of us. We were at Deoriatal (2438 m).

Reflection of those peaks in the lake was ........ No, my vocabulary is not so strong.... I just can't express that beauty with some cliched adjectives.. You guys will have to feel that from the photographs.











Meanwhile Raghu reached there with tents and chicken. We became very busy with our cameras. After a long photo session when we were just trying to drink the heavenly ambiance till the last drop, "Rabindrasangeet" (Tagore song) in a mesmerising voice came from the nearby jungle. Out of utter curiosity I followed the voice. An aged Bengali lady was wandering with that devotional song which expressed her deepest gratitude towards the nature.

In the afternoon , the sky became covered with cloud making me deeply annoyed. Though the rays of setting sun created dramas in the cloud, I was a bit frustrated.






At around 7 , the full moon took the responsibility of illuminating the valley but the cloud covered the whole range. The chicken curry appeared tasteless to my tongue....... spending night at Deoria in full moon remained partly unfulfilled....